Tabla

From Citysearch

Freewheeling fusion for the well-heeled set.

The Scene
Occupying a cavernous space in the Met Life Tower, the restaurant's soaring staircase, deeply stained woods and lush, curvilinear details make a striking impression. The second-floor dining room, itself gently bi-level, has a serious but relaxed air; smart, impeccably professional and engaging service creates a very comfortable dining experience.

The Food
This isn't Indian cuisine, but seasonings and techniques from the area lavishly spice up what would otherwise be competent and creative American food. Take roast chicken, to which a cumin jus and anise notes lend uncommon panache; or surreally succulent lamb enlivened by acutely tuned fruity curry flavor. A whole apple filled with roasted egetables and scented with Roquefort makes a striking starter, as does a handsomely composed crab and avocado salad with tamarind chutney in a papadum shell. The menu holds no letdowns: Desserts, like a cone of stiff kulfi with licorice, ot cinnamon souffle, extend dinner's spice into the sweet realm.

Insider Tips
The often powerfully spiced food puts up a heck of a fight against even the most full-bodied of wines, but there are several good contenders on the bill. The beer list, however, includes Colorado's hard-to-find Flying Dog, which complements the food with ease. Or try one of several specialty cocktails, such as the tart Tablatini and the posh pomegranate gimlet.

The more casual Bread Bar is located just downstairs and offers a more affordable menu. Refreshing drinks and patio seating make it a relaxing retreat during the warm months.

A 3-course prix-fixe menu is available for $54.